Thursday, November 23, 2017

Perfect cornbread


I forget to make cornbread, despite how nice this one is. Then Thanksgiving happens and I remember. And I ask myself again why I don't bake it more often.


The addition of fluffy egg whites in this version makes it a very light and soft loaf, and nothing like the cornbread bricks I have known. It is the perfect vehicle for slices of leftover ham.

Butter a 9" loaf pan. Preheat the oven to 375'F.

6 oz butter
1/3 cup sugar
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1 1/2 cups cornflour
1 Tablespoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs, separated, plus 1 extra egg white
1 cup milk, plus extra

Beat the egg whites till gentle peaks form, and set aside.

Cream the butter with the sugar until pale and fluffy. Add the egg yolks, beating them in. Slowly add the flours, baking powder and salt, with some of the milk if the mixture becomes too thick. Stir int the rest of the milk (add another splash if the mixture feels stiff).

Fold in half the egg whites, incorporating them gently, and then add the second half, mixing quite gently until the mixture is well integrated but not beaten flat.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake in the preheated oven for 35 - 40 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean.

It is best served with nothing but sweet butter. But it does love that topping of thinly sliced ham.

Make two. This goes fast.

Friday, July 21, 2017

Elderflower Cordial


[I repost this recipe annually.]

I love elderflower cordial. I used to settle for commercial versions (some very good). But in June 2014 I walked into a grove of elderbushes in bloom and struck white umbel nirvana. I picked till I was drunk. Then I began to read.

The manymany cordial recipes I researched were very similar, though some use even more sugar, and about half called for citric acid.


Having made several batches over three summers, I know now that fermentation speeds vary. My recipe below calls for 4 days, but I have made a batch that I bottled only after 8 days, because it started out so slowly (I picked the flowers after rain, which I think affected the yeast) and then remained very active. Please do more reading on your own.

I recommend Sandor Katz's The Art of Fermentation (Chelsea Green, 2012). Pay special attention to Page 91.

Wild yeast fermentation is not - in my experience - a precise science. These bugs are alive, and they behave according to the wiles of weather and sugar and temperature and plant. I do realize that the more sugar I use the more volatile the fizz - yeast feeds on sugar and burps carbon dioxide, which causes carbonation. By all means, experiment with less sugar. Some botanicals are more active than others. Flowers are fastest, they seem to hold the most yeast.


Elderflower Cordial - a fizz

(I use the same method for common milkweed flowers, but with half the lemon juice)

6 oz / or approx. 30 elderflower umbels
1 lb sugar/450 grams sugar
1.5 liters /52 fluid oz/6 cups water
1/2 cup (about 3-4 lemons-worth) fresh lemon juice
Zest of 4 lemons, peeled in strips, without pith

Don't wash the flowers. Instead, shake them upside down over a cloth to evict any small insects. Strip the tiny white flowers from the green stems, using your fingers. Discard as much green as possible (in any plant it will add a tannic note, but with elderflowers the green is toxic). Weigh the flowers, if weighing, and pack them lightly into a large mason jar (I use a 1.5 liter capacity jar). Dump the sugar on top of them.

Add the cool water, the lemon juice and the zest, stir well, and screw the lid on loosely. In a wire top jar either burp daily or secure double layers of muslin over the top of the open jar with a rubber band. At this stage the ferment actually needs air.

Leave the jar at room temperature for 4-ish days. Stirring helps, but you don't have to, as elderflowers seem particularly active.

Whatever you do, don't walk away from a sealed jar and forget about it for days or you could have an elderflower detonation on your hands...

After Day 4 (-ish), or when you notice the elderflowers rising and pushing up out of the jar (that's carbonation happening) strain through a fine mesh strainer and then again through cheesecloth. Bottle, and keep in the fridge for peace of mind.  You can keep it in a cool cupboard, but you should check it and burp it (open the lid slowly) daily to allow accumulated gas to escape.

Plastic bottles safer if you are nervous about possible explosions - the plastic bulges out when over-carbonated, giving you a very good clue that it wants to blow. Open over a sink, or outside.


To drink, dilute with sparkling water, add to a gin and tonic, or to shaken cocktails (like this one, with vermouth, or this one, with hyssop, or this one, with mint and gin), or simply splash into a glass of prosecco or Champagne.

Good luck not finishing this in a week, flat.


Wednesday, March 1, 2017

King Cake, but French


A couple of years ago I was asked to test half a dozen pastry and cake recipes for a South African magazine, Food and Home Entertaining. It was a lot of fun, because I baked things I would not ordinarily choose. I think the Frenchman and I also put on some weight. This easy-to-make, rustic puff pastry confection was delicious, filled with a frangipane. I cheated and used a high quality pre-made puff pastry - one day I suppose I'll make it at home again (not hard, but time consuming).

Galette des Rois is eaten in January for Epiphany, but since it is still a king cake, I have no problem rolling it out after Mardi Gras. This is not a religious household, so eat away, Lent or no Lent.

Galette des Rois

3.5 oz (100 gr) butter, softened
3.5 oz (100 gr) fine sugar
1 large egg
2 oz (60 gr) ground almonds
2 oz (60 gr) nibbed almonds*
2 Tablespoons (30 ml) rum
2 x 8 oz (230 gr) rolls ready-made puff pastry
2 Tablespoons jam of your choice, heated
1 egg yolk
2 Tablespoons water

*Or use almond slivers and pulse them in a food processor for a couple of seconds to chop up.

Preheat the oven to 400’F.

In a large bowl beat the butter and fine sugar until light and fluffy. Add the egg and beat in. Add the nuts and rum and mix well.


Roll out one puff pastry disc a floured work surface and cut out a disc 9 inches wide. Place onto a buttered baking sheet. Brush a layer of jam all over the disc, leaving a jamless ¼ inch gap around the edge.

Place the second roll of pastry on the floured work surface and cut a 10 inch wide disc (the larger circle will accommodate the filling). Reserve.


Spread the nut mixture on top of the jam on the first pastry layer. Brush the jamless edges lightly with water. Place the second layer of pastry over the first the nuts and jam. Trim if necessary. Crimp the edges to seal. Score the top of the pastry gently, making sure not to cut all the way through.

Whisk the egg yolk and water together in a small bowl to make an egg wash. Brush the pastry with the egg wash (the cake pictured had no egg wash - too pale).

Place in the preheated oven and bake for 45 – 50 minutes or until the pastry has puffed and is golden brown.


Saturday, December 31, 2016

How to make fir sugar


I first used fir needles in January 2016, after not wanting to lose the delicious scent of our Christmas tree (I also cut the branches to lay on top of pots in the garden, through winter - they are a good mulch).

I first wrote about how to use fir sugar on Gardenista, back in early December. But now that Northern sidewalks are becoming clogged with cast off trees, here is what to do with those fragrant needles before all the dogs in the neighborhood pee on them!


Our tree was from an organic grower (Windswept Farm). Warm soapy water may help in washing off any sprays that are on your tree, but only a lab (scientific, not dog) could you tell you that for sure.

After rinsing and drying the plucked needles, combine a quarter cup of needles with one cup of sugar and process in a spice grinder until very smooth and bright green. (Wash the grinder with hot water immediately after use or its blades will remain gummed up with resin.)

After grinding, transfer the highly aromatic fir sugar concentrate to a large bowl and add another cup of sugar to dilute it, mixing it well with your hands, before bottling and storing. You can make fir salt in exactly the same way. The color will fade with time but the scent will remain strong.



I often dilute this blend with either more sugar or salt when using it for gravlax, cocktails or baking, as it is very strong - but this potent batch is much easier to store. When baking you will notice that your cookies will be less fragile that usual - the resin in the needles makes for more substantial mouthfuls.

Head to Gardenista for the gravlax recipe. It is divine. If I say so myself.,

Monday, November 7, 2016

The best banana bread



I hated banana bread when I was little. I don't know why. My mother made a dense, dark version for my brother Francois, who loved it. Then Alice Wooledge Salmon's House and Garden Cooking with Style arrived in our house and I saw the light.

If you are like me, this will recipe will remain in your repertoire until you are no longer able to bend to shove the bread pan into the hot oven. One can only hope that, when the day arrives, someone else will make it for us. Huh. THAT's why one has children. Oops. Oh well.

This is more cake than bread, if we're being honest. I sometimes put lingonberry jam or rosehip jam (not too sweet) on it.

If you don't have wholewheat flour in the house, use all-white flour. I have substituted pecans and hazelnuts for macadamians, have added cranberries (fresh) or cherries or barberries (dried, soaked for an hour). I have used peaches and blueberries in late summer. I use more sour cream or yogurt than AWS stipulates and the milk is all mine. I also use spicebush instead of coriander, for my forage walk snack.

Otherwise this is the impossibly named lady's recipe. If you can find a copy of the out-of-print book, get it. It's wonderful. Near the top of my list for Save in a Flood.

Banana Macadamia Nut Bread

100 gr/3.5 oz unsalted butter
100 gr/3.5 oz brown sugar
2 eggs
2 ripe bananas, mashed or sliced thinly (I slice)*
4 Tbsp/1/4 cup sour cream or Greek yogurt
1 Tbsp lemon juice
150 gr/ 5 oz unbleached white flour
150 gr/5 oz wholewheat flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda (bicarb)
pinch of salt
1 tsp toasted and crushed coriander*
1/4 cup (or less) milk
100 gr/3.5 oz macadamia nuts, roasted (substitute pecans or hazelnuts)

*Variations:

1. Instead of coriander use 3 finely chopped dried spicebush (Lindera benzoin) berries.
2. Add 3/4 cup fresh cranberries, dried cherries or barberries.
3. Sliced and diced peaches and blueberries instead of the bananas (1.5 cups, total)

Heat oven to 350'F/180'C.

Slice or roughly chop nuts. Roast them if they are raw. The texture and flavor improve.

Butter a loaf pan.

Cream butter and sugar in a large bowl until pale and fluffy. Beat eggs into the mixture and add a little flour if (when!) the mixture separates. Add the bananas, cream/yogurt and lemon juice, mix well. Add the flour, baking powder, bicarb and salt, and mix thoroughly. The dough will be quite stiff. If it is too thick and dry, add the milk (the variable flour one uses makes a big difference: the more wholewheat the stiffer it will be). Finally, add the nuts, stir again, and transfer to the loaf pan, smoothing a slight hollow down the length of the dough.

Baking times vary, but it will be risen, brown and done in about 50 minutes. Use a sharp skewer to test the interior, if uncertain. If it comes out sticky, not done. Turn out of the pan and leave to cool on a wire rack.

Try not to eat it all at once. Fantastic for breakfast with strong coffee.

Monday, October 3, 2016

Basil and lemon curd ice cream



This recipe was given to me by Connie Finnemore. She served a mysterious, green ice cream after dinner one night in Cape Town, and it was - hands down - the best ice cream I have ever tasted (oddly, for a non ice cream eater, I recently made one to rival it: pawpaw, Asimina triloba. But that is another story).

The combination of lemon, basil and gin in cream is intense, refreshing and surprising. The hard liquor stops the cream from setting rock hard and gives it a lovely texture. Even better, this recipe is very easy.

My Thai basil (from Grow Journey seed) is still producing glut-quantities, and it worked very well, here.

I have also substituted mint for the basil, and white rum for the gin. Keep the lemon curd. And I am thinking of a less sweet version to scoop into gazpacho...

If you can't find it locally, here is my lemon curd recipe.

Connie's recipe calls for 3 "tots" -  a British measure. I take a tot to mean 25 ml, or 1 fl oz.

Basil Ice Cream - serves 6  (two scoops each)

1 cup whipping cream
325 grams/11.5 oz lemon curd
30  grams/1 oz fresh basil (stalks removed )
3 fl oz/75 ml gin

In a bowl, whip the cream till soft peaks form. Place the lemon curd, basil and gin in a blender and puree till smooth (you can also combine all ingredients in a blender, but the cream may thicken before the leaves are fine enough).

Fold the whipped cream into the basil mixture.

Freeze in a glass terrine dish or similar receptacle than can hold the mixture to a height of about three inches (for easy scooping).


Sunday, September 18, 2016

Lemon curd



Desperate for lemon curd to make a killer basil ice cream for a weekend away recently,  I realized I would have to make my own. Ain't no lemon curd in my part of Brooklyn. I scanned the web. Butter! Eggs! Lemons! In the end I hybridized several recipes.

Lemon curd is easy to make and keeps for just a couple of weeks in the fridge. The basil ice cream uses up one whole batch. and I now make double quantities, so that there is one pot to eat.

Meyer lemons are deliciously aromatic but regular lemons are very good too, and even more acidic (which I like).

Some recipes call for double boilers or for pots poised over hot water baths. But as long as you do not turn your back on the cooking curd on the stove none of that is necessary. Just keep whisking (if you've seen Finding Nemo, think Dory: "Keep whisking, keep whisking.")

What not to do: boil. Do not let it boil or it will separate.



This will make one medium jar of curd, about 300 grams (10.5 ounces). Doubling the recipe works well.

1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
zest of one lemon
3 large egg yolks
1 large egg
200 gr/7 oz sugar
Pinch of salt
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut up

Combine all the ingredients in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, whisking to blend the ingredients and to dissolve the sugar. Keep whisking. Once the butter has melted turn the heat to medium-low. Keep whisking. After 6-8 minutes you'll notice the mixture growing thicker and if you tip the pot to one side it will be coating the bottom. Keep whisking. After a couple more minutes when it is quite thick (it will never be stiff) remove it from the heat.

Push through a fine mesh sieve* into a bowl and transfer into a clean jar. Cool and refrigerate.

How to use lemon curd: spread on hot toasted English muffins, as a cake filling for sponge cakes, as a filling for small pastry shells, as a filling for Graham Cracker pie crusts, mixed with cream and frozen, stirred into Greek yogurt.

* I make a cocktail -  a jumped up Caipirinha - with the concentrated citrusy bits that are left in the sieve. Shaken up with cachaça, a squeeze of fresh lemon juice and poured over ice.

Friday, September 2, 2016

Peach soup - cold and spicy


If you like gazpacho, you will like peach soup. I created this recipe for a Gardenista story about peaches, but landed up publishing a peach bruschetta recipe, instead. So here it is.

Late summer, and basil and peaches are a surprisingly good combination. And perilla, while a weed in some parts, but also a prime ingredient in Japanese kitchens, adds a rose-petal flavor. If you do not have perilla, use mint (different, but compatible).

Apart from being delicious, this as is also self righteously healthy.

Cold Peach Soup - serves four as an appetizer

3 ripe yellow freestone peaches, skinned and pit removed
1 cup cucumber (peeled and seeded if fat, entire if Persian)
1 jalapeno, seeded or not (your call)
2 scallions, cut into chuncks
6 perilla leaves
16 basil leaves
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
lime juice

Pack it all into a blender. Whizz in stages, pushing down periodically to encourage the bottom bits to juicify. Puree till very smooth. Taste. Add a squeeze of lime juice if it seems too sweet. Pour into a jug or carafe, and chill.

Just before serving, stir the soup, as the solids may have separated a little from the juice.


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