It is late September, and the turning season is exciting. The produce at farmers markets is beginning to revolve, and cruciferous vegetables are arriving in the slow turn that will end in an infinity of apples, and tears by April.
At Borough Hall, this was such a beautiful cauliflower that I pounced on it, and then decided to keep it whole. It was our supper's main course (the side dish was broccoli with an anchovy and garlic dressing, if you're wondering).
It's hardly a recipe, but here goes.
1 head of cauliflower
Your favourite firm cheese (I used Emmenthaler)
Bring a large pot of water to a simmer on the stove and add a teaspoon of salt. When bubbles are rising in the hot water add the cauliflower, stem-end down. Cover and simmer for about ten minutes. Lift the lid, carefully grasp the cauliflower with tongs and turn over. Simmer another five minutes.
Heat the oven to 400'F/200'C.
Place the drained cauliflower in a large pan. Cut the cheese into slender batons and insert in about eight spots all around the cauliflower head. Rub a tablespoon of butter over the top, and drizzle a little olive oil over that. Season with salt and pepper.
Slide into the hot oven and roast until the top begins to brown, about 30 minutes.
Check on it once, basting the head with the melted butter and olive oil.
Remove from the oven, shower with a light cloud of microplaned parmesan, and serve at once, cut into big wedges.